Remember the scene from Sex and the City where Samantha gets a chemical peel? Times have changed!
A lot of us would probably avoid anything to do with peels or acids but let me make a few suggestions to put your mind at ease. Peels are not what they used to be in the ’80s and ’90s, when you’d walk out of a clinic looking like you’d had a fight with a blow torch. If the skin has not been correctly prepped prior to the treatment, these peels can be quite damaging to skin. Long before I became a therapist, while struggling with my own skin concerns, I had a skin consultation at a clinic in London. While waiting to be seen, I watched several clients leaving the clinic with bandages all over their faces. To say that I was highly alarmed was an understatement.
Whatever they were having done was definitely not a-peeling to me. In the many years since then, the peel has evolved into something more controlled, less aggressive and certainly more doable. We now have a plethora of next-generation acids and alkalines that do so much more than exfoliate. These treatments can erase sun damage, plump out wrinkles, banish acne and reduce scarring. To avoid further confusion, here are different types of peels that are structurally beneficial and safe to have as a treatment.
- Superficial peels use mild acids, such as alpha hydroxy acids, to gently exfoliate. This peel only penetrates the outermost layer of skin.
- Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid that helps prevent clogging in the pores and assists in regulation and control of oil production. It offers a quick and non-irritating method of removing dead skin cells and debris to improve the appearance of dull, coarse skin. It is ideal for oily, acne-prone and congested skin – used otherwise, it can be very drying.
- Mandelic is an acid peel suitable for wrinkles and fine lines. It is derived from bitter almonds, with research showing it to be as effective as glycolic acid when treating sun damage. However it is far gentler than other alpha hydroxy acids.
Mandelic peels can help stimulate collagen production to reduce fine lines. Not only does it exfoliate the top layer of skin but it encourages a new layer of skin cells to grow. Peels that are stronger, with a little more depth to them, are always best done in clinic. - Hyaluronic acid increases hydration in the skin. Hyaluronic is a sugar molecule found in the connective tissue of the joints and skin. It retains more than 1000 times its weight in water, making it the ultimate hydrator. As we age, hyaluronic acid production declines so it helps to use topical forms instead. When applied to the skin, it helps draw water into your skin cells and rehydrate them. Everything, from foundations to lipsticks, contains hyaluronic and can be used daily.
- Lactic acid is, arguably, the best all-rounder. It will clear the skin of toxins, dead skin cells and debris. Cell renewal is stimulated, as well as collagen production. On top of all that, the skin’s hydration levels can be increased up to 300 times.
Seen as suitable for use on sensitive skin, less irritation occurs due to being derived from milk. A beautiful evening out of skin tone, with the reduction of hyper pigmentation, will leave the skin glowing and plump. - Retinoic is a Vitamin A derivative and is a serious game-changer when it comes to achieving noticeable results. When absorbed by your skin cells it turns into retinoic acid and can get excellent results with concerns such as wrinkles and acne. It will strengthen blood vessels by boosting blood flow to the surface of the skin. However irritation can occur if not used correctly. I recommend not to use it every day to start with and always use with caution.
Vitamin A-based cremes are designed to exfoliate the build-up of dead skin cells as well as regulate and maintain healthy cell renewal. Vitamin A derivatives work by regulating an accelerated skin cell turnover in acne and congested skins. Always ask a professional before using vitamin A. Some cheap versions can penetrate the blood stream. - Ascorbic acid is a form of vitamin C and brightens, brightens, brightens. Vitamin C is a superstar for your skin when it is pure and stable. It is not as effective when purity and stability have been compromised. It is a powerful antioxidant capable of neutralising free radical damage caused by pollution and the sun’s UV rays. But it is also essential for the synthesis of collagen, which gives your skin its bounce. Vitamin C can brighten skin and improve elasticity. It is the sophisticated answer to assist in preventing and reversing the signs of biological and environmental ageing. It is highly recommended for all ages and is suitable for ageing, sun damage, fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation and scarring.
Before you try any acid-based peel, check whether you are a suitable candidate. Some acid peels are not recommended if you are pregnant or taking medications, such as Roaccutane, as it can make your skin more vulnerable to UV rays. Also, speak to a professional before treatment if you have conditions such as eczema, psoriasis or rosacea.